Skip These 34 Pantry Features (No Matter How Pretty They Look in the Model Home)

The model home pantry is lit from above, stocked with empty boxes, and photographed with the door swung wide.

Nobody has ever cooked in it.

Walk into the same room three years into ownership and the story changes. There’s a bag of flour fused to a shelf, a barn door that won’t close, and a back corner nobody has touched since the housewarming.

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Most pantry failures aren’t about size. They’re about decisions made for a camera and never tested by a person holding a gallon of milk and a bag of groceries.

Here are 34 pantry features that look great on the tour and quietly make your life worse.

AI Disclosure: We sometimes use AI tools to help generate images and assist with drafting and editing content. We review and refine everything before publishing.

1. The 20-Inch-Deep Builder Shelf

The 20-Inch-Deep Builder Shelf

Depth is the single biggest reason pantries fail, and almost nobody notices it on a walkthrough.

A 20-inch shelf holds two or three rows of cans. The front row gets used. The back row becomes archaeology — the expired coconut milk, the second jar of capers you bought because you couldn’t see the first one.

Professional pantry installers tend to land between 12 and 16 inches for food storage, and there’s a reason. You can see everything at once.

Deeper isn’t more storage. Deeper is more hiding places.

Rule of Thumb: Reserve the one deep shelf you keep for bulk paper goods and small appliances. Food belongs on shallow runs where the back row is still visible from the doorway.

2. The Sliding Barn Door

The Sliding Barn Door

You’ve seen it in a hundred listings. Black hardware, rough-sawn wood, a track bolted above the opening.

It never seals. There’s always a gap at the edges, which means kitchen smells and cooking grease drift right in.

It also covers exactly half the opening at any given moment, so you shuffle it left to reach the right side and right to reach the left. The track swallows three feet of adjacent wall you could have used for a broom hook or a calendar.

And you can’t hang anything on the door itself. Zero storage on a surface the size of a door.

3. Decanting Every Single Thing Into Matching Glass Canisters

Decanting Every Single Thing Into Matching Glass Canisters

Gorgeous. Genuinely. A wall of identical glass jars with the oats visible through the side is the single most photographed pantry setup of the last decade.

Then you throw away the box. With the box goes the cooking ratio, the expiration date, and the lot number if there’s ever a recall.

Dry goods don’t last forever in a jar either. The Ohio State University Extension notes that most shelf-stable staples have real quality windows measured in months, not years — and you’ve just thrown away the only record of when yours started.

Decant three things you use constantly. Leave the rest in packaging.

4. A Bar Sink in the Butler’s Pantry

A Bar Sink in the Butler's Pantry

This is the one that costs the most and gets used the least.

Running a second sink means supply lines, a drain line, and a vent — three separate systems extended ten or fifteen feet from the main kitchen stack. On a new build with open walls, you’re generally looking at $800 to $2,500 for the rough-in plus the fixture. In a remodel, where a plumber has to open finished walls, chase a vent up through a second floor, and patch behind it, $3,000 to $6,000 is a normal quote.

Then there’s the faucet itself. Bar faucets look small and cheap until you price a decent one — a quality single-handle bar faucet from a name brand runs $150 to $400, and the difference between a cheap and expensive faucet shows up fast in a fixture that only gets wet once a month.

That last part matters more than the money. A drain that sits dry for weeks lets the P-trap evaporate, and sewer gas comes up through the empty trap. Owners who swear their butler’s pantry “smells like a basement” are usually smelling exactly that.

Ask yourself honestly how many times a year you’d fill a glass there. If the answer is under a dozen, put a cabinet in that spot instead.

Cost Check: A rarely-used bar sink needs water run through it monthly just to keep the trap sealed. Add a calendar reminder, or budget for a plumber visit to chase a phantom smell.

5. Vinyl-Coated Wire Shelving

Vinyl-Coated Wire Shelving

Builder default since roughly 1985, and still going.

Bottles wobble on the grid. Small boxes tip through the gaps. Anything with a soft bottom — a bag of rice, a sack of onions — comes away with ridge marks pressed into it.

In photos it reads airy and clean. In use it’s a shelf that only works if you put a board on top of it, which is what half the people who have it end up doing.

Solid melamine or plywood costs a little more and holds everything flat.

6. The Corner Pantry’s Dead L

The Corner Pantry's Dead L

Two deep shelf runs meet in the corner of a tract-home pantry and create a cavity roughly 20 by 20 inches that you can only reach by climbing over whatever sits in front of it.

That’s where the cream of mushroom soup lives. Permanently.

Some corners can be saved with a pull-out or a rotating unit, but most just get sacrificed. Plan for it rather than pretending it’s storage.

7. Woven Seagrass and Wicker Baskets for Food

Woven Seagrass and Wicker Baskets for Food

The organic-texture look took over pantry styling around 2016, and the baskets are the most visible symptom.

They shed. Little fibers end up on the shelf under them, and every few months you’re pulling the whole thing out to shake it.

You can’t see inside them, which recreates the exact problem a pantry is supposed to solve. Everything becomes a mystery container you have to lift down and dig through.

The real issue is what lives in the weave. Open fiber baskets holding loose crackers, cereal, or pet food are an invitation to the Indianmeal moth — the gray-and-copper moth you see fluttering near the ceiling. They lay eggs in opened packaging, the larvae chew through thin plastic and paper bags, and the webbing they leave behind looks like cobweb in the corners of boxes.

Crumbs caught in a basket’s weave feed them indefinitely. Same crumbs draw mice, who find an open basket considerably more welcoming than a sealed bin.

Clear, lidded, airtight containers kill the whole cycle. The USDA is blunt about it: once a package is opened, the contents need a tight container to stay safe and stable.

Watch For: Fine webbing inside a cereal box or clumped flour that won’t sift freely. Both mean moths are already established, and one infested bag will spread to every opened package on the shelf.

8. Shelves Running All the Way to a 10-Foot Ceiling

Shelves Running All the Way to a 10-Foot Ceiling

Tall ceilings arrived, and pantry shelving climbed with them.

Anything above about 72 inches stops being food storage. It becomes the Christmas platter zone, the vase shelf, the place where the cupcake carrier goes to live out its days.

You won’t drag a step stool into a closet to get crackers. Nobody does, not once the novelty of a new house wears off.

Count your real storage from the floor to shoulder height. That’s the number that matters.

9. The Rolling Library Ladder on a Brass Rail

The Rolling Library Ladder on a Brass Rail

Four figures. Sometimes well into them, once you add the rail, the hardware, and the finish work.

Most pantries are under six feet wide. A ladder parked against one wall eats the floor clearance you need to actually stand and look at your shelves.

And the use case never materializes. At 6 p.m. with a pan heating on the stove, nobody is rolling a ladder sideways to retrieve pasta.

It’s a library feature wearing a pantry costume.

10. Glass-Front Pantry Doors

Glass-Front Pantry Doors

Clear glass, reeded glass, fluted glass — all of it does the same thing. It turns your food storage into a display case.

Which means you’re styling cereal boxes now. Forever. Every grocery trip ends with a quick tidy so the pantry doesn’t look like a pantry.

Frosted or solid panels buy you something underrated: the right to be messy behind a closed door.

11. A Pantry With Zero Outlets

A Pantry With Zero Outlets

Walk the model home and notice how often the pantry has no receptacle at all. The staging never needs one.

Then you move in. The stand mixer has nowhere to live plugged in, the slow cooker can’t run in there, phones and tablets have no charging shelf, and under-shelf lighting means a cord snaking out under the door.

Adding a receptacle after drywall and paint is a $200 to $450 electrician call, more if the circuit is full and a new home run is needed.

One outlet at 42 inches changes what the room can do.

Install Note: If you’re still at the framing stage, ask for two receptacles on separate walls. Running the wire costs almost nothing before drywall and is a real expense after.

12. The Under-the-Stairs Pantry

The Under-the-Stairs Pantry

Harry Potter charm, Victorian pedigree, and a sloped ceiling that destroys roughly a third of the usable height.

The tall end works fine. The short end only holds things you’d have to kneel on the floor to reach, so it fills with bulk paper towels and stays that way.

Pull-out drawers on full-extension slides are the only thing that makes the low wedge usable. Fixed shelving down there is storage on paper, not in practice.

13. Fixed, Non-Adjustable Shelf Spacing

Fixed, Non-Adjustable Shelf Spacing

Shelves nailed in at a uniform 12 inches. It happens in builder cabinetry and in site-built closets both.

A tall cereal box won’t stand up. A stock pot doesn’t fit anywhere. A row of 4-inch spice jars wastes eight inches of air above it.

Adjustable standards or shelf pins cost almost nothing at the build stage. The difference between a usable pantry and a daily game of Tetris is about $40 in hardware.

14. The In-Pantry Coffee Bar and Appliance Garage

The In-Pantry Coffee Bar and Appliance Garage

The hidden-kitchen trend put espresso machines, toasters and kettles inside closed pantries, and the photos are excellent.

Steam is the problem nobody mentions. An espresso machine or a kettle releases a surprising amount of water vapor, and in a sealed closet with no exhaust it goes straight into the shelf edges above it.

Melamine swells first. The edge banding lifts, then the particleboard core underneath puffs and never goes back down. Within two years you’ve got a wavy shelf lip and a room that smells faintly musty on humid days.

The electrical adds up too. A decent espresso machine pulls 1,200 to 1,500 watts, and running it alongside a toaster on the same 15-amp circuit trips the breaker. Most installs want a dedicated 20-amp circuit, which is $300 to $700 depending on panel distance.

Some owners go further and run a water line for a plumbed machine. That’s a quarter-inch supply tap, a shutoff, and a small drip pan if you’re smart — and a slow leak behind a coffee station in a closed closet is the kind of thing you find by smell, months later.

If you want the coffee bar, vent the space. A small through-wall exhaust fan or a louvered door costs under $200 and saves the cabinetry.

Here’s Why: Enclosed closets hold humidity far longer than open kitchens because there’s no air exchange. Moisture that would dissipate in minutes over an open counter sits against shelf edges for hours.

15. The Over-the-Door Wire Rack

The Over-the-Door Wire Rack

Sold in every big-box organizing aisle, and the packaging photo always shows it loaded with neat little jars.

Loaded for real, it hangs maybe 20 pounds off the top edge of a hollow-core door. Hinges start to sag within a season, and the door stops latching cleanly.

It rattles on every close. And it’s thick enough that the door no longer sits flush against the jamb, so the gap at the frame grows.

Mount a shallow rack to the wall instead.

16. A Marble Counter in the Butler’s Pantry

A Marble Counter in the Butler's Pantry

Carrara or Calacatta, honed or polished, installed in a windowless pass-through that no guest will ever stand in.

Marble etches on contact with anything acidic. A glass of red wine set down and forgotten through a dinner party leaves a ring that’s still there Monday.

You’re paying $70 to $150 a square foot for a surface whose main job will be holding a grocery bag. Quartz handles that duty without flinching, and in a room with no natural light nobody can tell the difference anyway.

17. The Lazy Susan Carousel in the Pantry Corner

The Lazy Susan Carousel in the Pantry Corner

It spins, which feels like a solution.

What you get is a doughnut of usable space. The outer ring holds things; the center is dead and unreachable, and anything that migrates there is gone.

Tall bottles are worse. Olive oil, vinegar, syrup — they tip against the shelf above, jam the rotation, and eventually something falls.

Lazy Susans earn their keep in a base cabinet. In a walk-in pantry, straight shallow shelves beat them every time.

18. A Beverage Fridge Tucked Into the Pantry

A Beverage Fridge Tucked Into the Pantry

A compressor is a heat pump. It takes heat out of the cabinet and dumps it into the room — and if that room is a sealed closet full of dry goods, you’ve just installed a space heater next to your flour.

Ambient temperature in the pantry can climb five to ten degrees around the unit. That matters more than people assume. Both the Virginia Cooperative Extension and most storage guidance put the target for dry goods around 50 to 70°F, and shelf life drops sharply above that. Oils go rancid faster, crackers go stale, chocolate blooms.

Then there’s condensation. Undercounter beverage units need clearance at the front vent, and when they’re boxed into a tight alcove the coils run hot and the exterior sweats. That moisture lands on the adjacent shelf, and particleboard shelving absorbs it like a sponge.

Add an ice maker and you’ve got a water line in the mix. A quarter-inch poly or braided supply tee’d off the kitchen cold line, run through a wall into a closet, with a shutoff you’ll never look at again. Slow leaks at those connections are one of the more common sources of hidden water damage in a kitchen, and the signs show up late — a soft baseboard, a musty smell, a stain on the ceiling below.

If you want the fridge in there, give it its own vented alcove with at least two inches of clearance at the rear and an unobstructed front grille. And put a leak sensor under it.

Buyer Beware: Most beverage coolers are rated for a maximum ambient temperature around 90°F. In a closed pantry next to an exterior wall in summer, they run constantly and fail years early.

19. Carpet — or Unsealed Laminate — on the Pantry Floor

Carpet — or Unsealed Laminate — on the Pantry Floor

Carpet in a pantry was standard in a lot of 1970s and 80s homes, and it still shows up every time somebody converts a bedroom closet into food storage without changing the flooring.

Drop a quart of olive oil on carpet and you don’t clean it. You cut it out. Oil wicks into the backing, then into the pad, then into the subfloor, and the smell of rancid oil underneath a pantry floor is not something a shampoo machine touches.

Flour and sugar spills vanish into the pile and feed insects you’ll never see. A sticky jam spill becomes a permanent dark patch.

Unsealed laminate is a different failure with a worse ending. Laminate’s core is high-density fiberboard — essentially compressed paper. It handles a wiped-up spill fine and handles standing water terribly.

A slow drip from a shelved appliance, a leaking water line to a beverage fridge, or a bottle that cracks and seeps overnight gets under the plank seams. The HDF core swells, the planks lift at the edges and cup, and once they swell they never flatten again.

Worse, the water keeps going. It spreads under the floating floor across the underlayment, reaching subfloor you can’t see. Mold needs about 24 to 48 hours on wet cellulose to start, and in a dark closed closet it gets exactly that undisturbed.

The fix is cheap if you do it first. Sheet vinyl, LVP with a waterproof core, or sealed tile — anything where a gallon of liquid sits on top instead of soaking in. And if the pantry holds anything plumbed, a $20 water alarm on the floor pays for itself the first time it goes off. Most water damage from small leaks isn’t caught by seeing it. It’s caught by smelling it, which is already too late.

Numbers That Matter: Replacing 30 square feet of pantry LVP runs a few hundred dollars. Remediating a moldy subfloor under that same footprint starts around $1,500 and climbs fast once drywall comes out.

20. The Pocket Door

The Pocket Door

It solves the swing problem elegantly. For a while.

Pocket doors run on rollers in a track inside the wall cavity, and those rollers wear. The door starts dragging on the floor, then jumps the track, then jams half-open.

Fixing it means cutting into drywall to reach the hardware. That’s a repair with paint and patching attached to it, for a door that also gives you no hanging surface and no sound seal.

21. Tiered Can Dispensers and Soda Racks

Tiered Can Dispensers and Soda Racks

A product of late-night infomercials that never fully went away.

The rack is machined for one can diameter. Tall soups jam, short tuna tins slide under the lip, and anything in a wide-mouth jar won’t go in at all.

It also takes a 16-inch shelf and gives you back about 10 inches of staggered usable depth. You lose more than you gain, in exchange for a FIFO system you could get for free by just putting new cans behind old ones.

22. A Statement Pendant Over the Pantry

A Statement Pendant Over the Pantry

A sculptural globe hung in the center of a five-by-six closet.

Stand under it and you block the light. Your own shadow lands on exactly the shelf you’re reading, every single time.

Linear LED strips at the front edge of each shelf throw light where your eyes are pointed. Cheaper, uglier when the door’s open, and far better at its job.

23. The 6-Inch Pull-Out Tower

The 6-Inch Pull-Out Tower

Marketed relentlessly as the small-kitchen miracle. Slim roll-out, full-height, holds all your spices.

It holds about two rows of jars. Loaded, it’s heavy and narrow — the worst possible combination for drawer hardware — and the full-extension slides on budget versions start binding within a year or two.

It also rattles on every pull, because nothing inside it is secured.

If you want pull-outs, go wider and fewer.

24. Shiplap or Beadboard on Pantry Walls

Shiplap or Beadboard on Pantry Walls

The farmhouse revival put horizontal grooves on every surface in the house, including the one room where food lives.

Every groove is a ledge. Flour dust settles in them, crumbs collect in them, and a sponge skips right over the top without getting down inside.

Spiders like the gaps behind the boards. So do pantry moths looking for somewhere to pupate.

Flat painted drywall in a scrubbable semi-gloss is the boring, correct answer.

25. A Window in the Pantry

A Window in the Pantry

Bright pantries photograph beautifully, and older homes often came with a window in the larder for ventilation.

Light degrades food. Cooking oils oxidize faster under UV, paprika and turmeric fade to beige, and anything in a clear jar loses color and flavor on a sunny shelf.

The temperature swing is the other half. A south-facing pantry window can push the room twenty degrees above the rest of the house by afternoon, then drop it overnight.

And you’ve given up a full wall of shelving for the privilege. Homes & Gardens flags it as one of the more common small-pantry regrets.

26. The Hidden Secret-Door Pantry

The Hidden Secret-Door Pantry

A bookcase that swings open. A section of paneling with a hidden latch. Social media loves these, and so does everyone who tours your house once.

Concealed doors are heavy, because they carry whatever is disguising them. That weight pulls on the hinges, the door starts sagging, and the latch that was invisible by design becomes fussy by Tuesday.

Now picture it with a gallon of milk in one hand and two grocery bags in the other, trying to find a pressure point on a flush panel.

Novelty: high. Daily friction: higher.

27. Moody Dark Paint Inside the Pantry

Moody Dark Paint Inside the Pantry

Charcoal, forest green, black. The deep-color trend is great in a dining room and actively hostile in a storage closet.

Dark walls absorb most of what little light is in there. Label text goes unreadable, and you end up pulling cans into the doorway to identify them.

Spills hide too. A dribble of soy sauce on a dark shelf stays invisible until it’s tacky under your fingers.

Bright white in a semi-gloss. Every time.

Quick Fact: White paint reflects roughly 80% of the light that hits it. A deep charcoal reflects under 10%, which means the same bulb delivers a fraction of the usable brightness.

28. The Chalkboard Wall or Door

The Chalkboard Wall or Door

Peak 2012. Every pantry door in America got a coat of chalkboard paint and a cursive grocery list.

Three weeks of enthusiasm, then a permanent gray smear nobody fully erases. Chalkboard paint ghosts badly once it’s been written on, and conditioning it properly is a step almost nobody does.

Chalk dust in a room full of open food containers is also just a bad combination.

29. Open Shelving With No Door at All

Open Shelving With No Door at All

Loft kitchens and modern builds love the doorless pantry. It reads intentional and architectural.

Airborne cooking grease is the issue. Every time you sear something, a fine aerosol of oil travels and settles — and it settles on every box, jar and bag in that open nook. Within months everything has a slightly tacky film that grabs dust.

The visual load is the other cost. An open pantry is a permanent to-do list in your peripheral vision, and there’s no closing the door on it when you’re done for the night.

30. A Walk-In So Big You Walk Around In It

A Walk-In So Big You Walk Around In It

Square footage sells. But every square foot of floor you’re standing on is a square foot not storing anything.

A 6-by-8 walk-in with a wide aisle can easily hold less food than a well-planned reach-in with four shallow runs of shelving across one wall, because the reach-in has no circulation space to give away.

The aisle width is what decides it. Under 36 inches and you can’t open the door with a person inside; over 48 and you’re just donating space to the floor.

Measure linear feet of shelving, not square feet of room. That’s the real capacity number.

31. A Pantry Placed Outside the Work Triangle

A Pantry Placed Outside the Work Triangle

Open-plan layouts pushed pantries around corners, into hallways, across the room from the range.

Every extra step between the pantry and the prep counter gets paid for daily. Fifteen feet away means groceries get set on the island “for now,” and “for now” is permanent.

Watch where the clutter piles up in a kitchen and you can usually guess how far away the pantry is. It’s the same logic that makes certain kitchen layouts drive people crazy once they cook in them.

Ten feet from the main prep zone is the outer limit before it stops getting used properly.

32. The Custom Vinyl Label System

The Custom Vinyl Label System

Matching font. Leveled with a laser. Color-coded by category. Hundreds of dollars and a full weekend.

It survives exactly as long as every person in the house maintains it.

Then someone buys jasmine rice instead of basmati, and it goes into the jar labeled BASMATI because that’s the empty one. Someone else can’t find the label for quinoa and leaves it in the bag on the counter. A kid puts the pretzels in the “crackers” bin.

Six months later you’ve got a beautiful set of jars whose labels are politely lying to you.

Label by category, not by product. “Baking,” “Pasta,” “Snacks” survive a brand change. “Organic Steel-Cut Oats” doesn’t.

33. Motorized Pull-Down Shelving

Motorized Pull-Down Shelving

This one’s a genuine judgment call, not an easy no.

It does solve the high-shelf problem, and for someone with limited reach or mobility that’s not a luxury — it’s access to half their own kitchen. Pull-down units earn their place in that situation.

For everyone else, you’re spending $1,500 to $3,000 to add a motor, a control board and a lift mechanism to a shelf. Every one of those is a thing that can fail, and parts for discontinued units get scarce fast.

Need it, buy it. Want it because it looked cool on the tour, skip it.

34. A Second Dishwasher in the Butler’s Pantry

A Second Dishwasher in the Butler's Pantry

The entertaining dream: load the party dishes out of sight, run both machines at once.

It needs its own hot supply, its own drain with a high loop or air gap, and usually its own circuit. On a remodel that’s another $1,500 to $3,000 before you’ve bought the appliance.

Then it sits unused for eleven months a year, which is its own problem — seals dry out, the drain trap evaporates, and the first time you fire it up for Thanksgiving it leaks or smells.

Run it monthly or don’t install it.

Almost every item on this list fails the same test: it was designed to be looked at, not used.

Model homes are sales tools. The staging exists to make you feel something in eight minutes of walking, and nothing in that eight minutes involves putting away $300 of groceries on a Tuesday night.

Shallow shelves, good light, a door that closes, a floor that doesn’t absorb anything, and one outlet. That’s the whole recipe, and none of it photographs well.

The best pantry you’ll ever own is one nobody comments on.

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6 thoughts on “Skip These 34 Pantry Features (No Matter How Pretty They Look in the Model Home)”

  1. You contradict yourself – wasted space with the L-corner, but don’t use a lazy susan there! – with the lazy susan poorly placed on the shelf. Make sure you have an outlet IN the pantry for your stand mixer (I always place my stand mixer on the kitchen counter so I have workspace nearby), but don’t put & use your coffeemaker in the the pantry and use it because it ruins the melamine shelf you put in rather than having used vinyl-covered wire. If one were to take your article as ‘absolute truth’ one would be confused as to which truth is true with the above contradictions. (URL below needed shortening as it was too long & created an error message)

    Reply
  2. Pocket door tracks that disengage & rollers fail?
    Well, yeah, if you use cheap BS pocket door hardware.
    instead, choose Inexpensive, widely available pocket door systems from Johnson Hardware. Theirs DON’T.
    Johnson track rollers cannot derail. Each trolley has wheels that engage on both sides of their specially designed track rail. Their included base bodel wheelsets are height adjustable with an included wrench & ae good for 125 lb doors. Available upgraded ones that fit all their tracks, support far more. Their product design includes a door release on each truck & the rail has roller access slot that locates at the closing end to allow take out and lubrication of rollers- (maybe needed every 75 years?) their kits include steel wrapped studs for the pocket. simply brilliant in every way. I have 2 of their pocket door systems installed for years – in heavily used doorways & supporting solid wood panel doors. Shortly will add a 3rd one to serve a new basement access stairwell doorway.

    Reply
    • Absolutely! That was what I came here to say. We had a pocket door between our kitchen and living room and it was wonderful. Never EVER failed the whole time we lived there.

      Reply
  3. The Lazy Susan problem is real. They work great on a table or a counter, but in a confined space with very little head room (under a shelf or low cabinet) they fail. The small lip along the perimeter is not enough to keep small spice cans or tall exotic vinegar or oil bottles from falling over, and when they do fall over they jam up the carousel, requiring a complete clear off and restacking to clear the jam. I have made some lazy susans with a 3″ perimeter wall to prevent items from falling off the ride, and they do work for preventing the jam-up problem, but then you need 3 extra inches of head space to lift things out.

    Reply
  4. So basically don’t have a pantry? I just built one with some of the things you said and I think you are wrong. I love my quartz counter, high cabinets and high quality white barn door!

    Reply
  5. I have a solution that I don’t see here.

    The biggest issue is the first one (with an addition). The shallow, builder shelves, 20″-deep with the wire/vinyl construction. The problem is not losing things in the back, it’s the wasted space. Add to that, the narrow closet door, and the surrounding doorway, and half the pantry is wasted space.

    We solved this, when redoing our kitchen. The door was removed. The drywall and doorway cut out all the way around. And a kitchen cabinet, matching the rest of the cabinets was built, and slid into what previously felt like a small linen closet. Now, we’re using the full depth and width, with roll-out wooden shelves. You don’t lose things in the back, because you can roll the shelves all the way out. It improved the usability of the pantry immeasurably.

    Reply

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