Mr. Kitchen Faucets

Things We Put in Bathrooms Today That Nobody Actually Needs

Spend a Saturday wandering a bathroom showroom and you’ll notice the trick: warm lighting, tubs staged with rolled towels, and every vignette pitching you something your grandparents never once missed.

A little of it earns its keep. Most of it doesn’t.

Bathrooms are small, wet, and poorly ventilated by nature, yet we keep loading them up with electronics, buried plumbing, and surfaces that soak up moisture. Then we act surprised when the caulk goes black or the fancy sensor quits.

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This isn’t about taste. It’s about upkeep — the things that grow mold, drip behind walls, crust over with scale, or vanish from the market the day you finally need a replacement part.

Here are 28 bathroom additions that, for almost everyone, do nothing but add work.

AI Disclosure: We sometimes use AI tools to help generate images and assist with drafting and editing content. We review and refine everything before publishing.

1. Rolled Towels on Open Shelves

Open Shelving Full of Rolled Towels

Hotels can pull this off because staff swap out the whole display every single day.

At home, nobody’s doing that. The towels just sit there in humid air, quietly absorbing steam, dust, and whatever gets kicked into the air when the toilet flushes with the lid up nearby. The result is a stack that’s purely for show — untouchable — while the towels people actually dry off with hang on a hook you can’t see in the photo. A cabinet with a door accomplishes the same look-neat goal without inviting moisture in.

2. The Whirlpool Tub With Jets

The Jetted Whirlpool Tub

This is the classic case of a luxury item everyone installs and almost nobody uses — big between 1985 and 2005, and somehow still a showroom staple.

The tub itself is fine. It’s the hidden plumbing, two to four feet of it, that causes trouble.

Draining the tub doesn’t drain the jet lines. Water carrying soap scum, skin oils, conditioner and shampoo stays trapped inside those pipes, and a warm, dark, wet tube is exactly where biofilm thrives — often within days. Fire up the jets weeks later and the gray-brown flecks that spray out aren’t leftover dirt; they’re that colony breaking loose.

There is a legitimate maintenance routine: fill past the highest jet with hot water, add a couple tablespoons of powdered dishwasher detergent plus roughly half a cup of bleach, run the jets for ten to fifteen minutes, drain, refill cold, run another ten minutes, and drain again. The Lawrence Journal-World recommends doing this monthly — indefinitely, whether or not you ever soak in it.

Since virtually nobody keeps that up, a whole cottage industry exists just to strip the jets out: plug the ports, refinish the shell, disconnect the pump, and convert it to a plain soaker. That runs a few hundred dollars, more if the acrylic needs a full reglaze.

Air-jet tubs improve on this because they blow the lines dry after each cycle. But if soaking is the actual goal, a deep acrylic tub with no internal plumbing gets you there for a third of the cost.

3. A Bench Built Into the Shower

The Built-In Shower Bench

Context decides whether this is smart or wasteful. In a curbless, aging-in-place shower, it’s a genuinely great feature — no argument there. Cram it into a standard 32-inch stall, though, and a 15-inch bench eats up roughly a third of your floor space, blocks two people from showering at once, and forces you to step around it just to reach the valve. It also introduces two extra waterproofing seams — top-to-wall and front-to-floor — right where water naturally collects. Unless accessibility is the actual goal, a $70 teak stool does the job and can be lifted out whenever you want the floor back.

4. The In-Wall-Tank Wall-Hung Toilet

The Wall-Hung Toilet With an In-Wall Tank

These float above the floor for a sleek look, and yes, mopping underneath is genuinely easier.

But consider what’s hiding in the wall: a steel carrier frame lag-bolted to the studs, a concealed cistern, the fill valve, the flush valve, and the water supply — all sealed behind finished drywall or tile.

Every future repair starts with the question of access. A proper removable panel behind the flush plate turns a fill-valve swap into a twenty-minute job. But when installers tile straight over it — common, because the panel breaks up the clean look — swapping a $30 flush valve turns into cutting open tile and drywall, then patching and re-grouting afterward. Plumbers regularly quote $600 to $1,500 for that job.

The real argument against these, though, is what happens when something leaks. A slow weep at the cistern fitting or a worn flush gasket won’t pool visibly on your bathroom floor. Instead it runs down inside the stud cavity, soaking the bottom plate, the subfloor, and the backside of the drywall and insulation — all in a space with zero light or airflow. Mold gets a multi-month head start before you notice anything, and usually the first clue is a smell you can’t trace or a soft patch of flooring near the wall.

To be fair, the carrier frames themselves — Geberit, TOTO — are built to last decades. It’s the same cheap wear parts every toilet has that eventually fail; they’re just entombed in a wall. If you go this route, insist on a removable access panel and know exactly where the shutoff is before drywall goes up.

5. The Sensor-Activated Bathroom Faucet

The Touchless Bathroom Faucet

This is airport-restroom technology that migrated into homes around 2010. A basic widespread faucet is just a cartridge and two handles; a touchless version bolts on a battery pack, an infrared sensor window, a control box, and a solenoid valve — four additional components that can fail, and when the electronics die, that’s it. No cartridge swap brings it back.

Sensors also misfire constantly: steam fogging the window, a towel swinging past, a dark sleeve that doesn’t reflect light back. Angi has documented the typical failure list. In a kitchen, where your hands might be covered in raw chicken, hands-free makes real sense. At a bathroom sink, you’re seconds away from touching a bar of soap anyway.

6. A Second Showerhead for “His and Hers”

The Second Showerhead for "His and Hers"

The 2000s-era master bath sold the fantasy of two people showering side by side. In reality, most households shower the way they always have — one person, then the other, twenty minutes apart.

Run two heads off a single valve and you split the flow, so both come out weak. Give each head its own valve and now you’ve doubled the cartridges and the supply lines buried in the wall — twice the parts that can eventually leak. The second head usually ends up functioning as a towel hook.

The better question: would you rather have a redundant fixture in that wall, or one great valve paired with a handheld on a slide bar that everyone in the house can actually use?

None of this means your bathroom has to be beige with a builder-grade vanity. Spend real money — just spend it where it’s hard to fix later: waterproofing, drain sizing, ventilation that genuinely moves air, and valves with cartridges that will still be sold in 2045.

The best fixtures are the ones you forget are even there, because they never demand anything from you. Everything else is just a photo op you have to keep cleaning.

7. The Illuminated Smart Mirror

The Smart Mirror

LED halo lighting, a defogger pad, a built-in clock, Bluetooth audio, a touch-sensitive strip along the frame — all hardwired into a room that steams up twice daily.

The LEDs themselves are long-lived. What isn’t: the driver and the touch controller, which commonly last around five years and are specific to that exact model. Once it fails, you’re not shopping for a mirror — you’re paying an electrician to open a junction box behind the tile and install a replacement that’s likely been discontinued. A plain mirror flanked by two good sconces actually flatters your face more anyway.

8. Pebble Tile on the Shower Floor

The Pebble-Tile Shower Floor

It reads like a creek bed underfoot — and drains about as well as one, too.

Look at the grout lines: a pebble sheet packs in several times more linear grout than a standard two-inch mosaic, and grout is the porous material. Every dip between stones traps a bit of standing water after your shower ends, which is precisely the setup mildew loves. On top of that, rounded river stones under a bare heel aren’t the relaxing massage the catalog implies — they hurt. The style peaked from 2008 to 2018, and it demands annual sealing; skip a year and the joints start darkening almost immediately.

9. The Open, Doorless Wet Room

The Doorless Walk-In Wet Room

For accessibility, this might be the single best bathroom innovation in decades — curbless, no threshold, easy wheelchair access.

For most other people, it’s just cold. Without a door, the warm air from your shower mixes straight into the room, so the water never feels warm at shoulder height — a ceiling heater helps, but that means another circuit to install. Steam also spreads throughout the whole space, so you end up waterproofing and ventilating the entire bathroom, not just a shower stall. It’s the right call for the right household, and the wrong call when it’s chosen purely because it photographs beautifully.

10. Sliding Barn Doors on Bathrooms

The Barn Door on the Bathroom

A barn door slides across the opening rather than fitting inside it, which leaves a gap along the top, a gap along the bottom, and roughly a quarter inch of daylight down each side — no latch, no seal, no sound isolation whatsoever.

This trend got bolted onto bathrooms repeatedly from 2013 to 2020, of all rooms — the one space in the house where privacy is the whole point. Steam escapes straight into the hallway and soaks the drywall above the door frame instead of exiting through the exhaust fan like it should. Save the barn door for a pantry.

11. A Tub Filler Mounted in the Floor

The Floor-Mounted Tub Filler

Picture a chrome pole rising out of the tile next to a freestanding tub, often priced between $900 and $2,500 — sometimes costing more than the tub itself.

What that price actually buys you is precision plumbing. The supply lines must be roughed in through the floor joists to within roughly a quarter inch, before any tile goes down. Get the position wrong and the spout won’t line up with the tub; move the tub later and you’re tearing up the floor.

The bigger issue is the shutoffs. Most installations have no accessible valve at the fixture — the stops are buried under the floor, inside the joist bay, or somewhere remote in the basement. If the filler starts dripping at a connection, you can’t isolate just that fixture; you have to shut off water to the entire house.

And a slow leak at a floor-mounted union is sneaky. It travels down the outside of the riser, follows the pipe through the floor penetration, and eventually shows up as a brown stain on the ceiling below — often months after it began, by which point the joist cavity already has wet insulation and early mold growth. On a slab foundation, it’s even worse, since the plumbing is entombed in concrete.

A wall- or deck-mounted filler does exactly the same job with reachable shutoffs, far less risk, and lets you shut off water to just the tub if something goes wrong.

12. The Touchscreen Digital Shower Valve

The Digital Shower Control Panel

Instead of a handle, you get a touchscreen wired to proprietary electronics, a mixing module, and typically a companion app — all embedded in the tiled wall.

Compare that to a standard pressure-balance or thermostatic cartridge, which costs $30 to $80, sits on the shelf at any hardware store, and hasn’t changed much in design for decades — Moen and Delta still stock cartridges for valves from the 1980s. A proprietary digital module that gets discontinued in, say, 2022 has no such shelf life. There’s no replacement part, only a demolition estimate, because manufacturers do discontinue these systems, and when the electronics fail, the shower stops working entirely.

13. Two Sinks in One Double Vanity

The Double Vanity With Two Sinks

Standard in master baths since the 1990s, this setup solves a bathroom traffic jam that realistically lasts about two minutes a day. Squeeze two bowls into a 60-inch vanity and each side gets maybe eight inches of usable counter — not enough room for a hairdryer, let alone a toiletry bag. Under 72 inches of vanity width, a single sink with generous counter space on both sides is simply the more livable choice. It also means half the faucets, half the pop-up drains that eventually seize, and half the supply lines that could someday leak behind a cabinet door.

14. The Above-Counter Vessel Sink

The Vessel Sink

Everyone who’s owned one has splashed the counter at least once.

Sitting the bowl on top of the deck pushes the rim up to about 36 inches — workable for a tall adult, awkward for a seven-year-old — and water tends to leave the bowl rather than stay in it, landing on the countertop, the drawer fronts, and the floor. There’s also the seam problem: the silicone bead where glass or ceramic meets stone develops a permanent gray line no amount of scrubbing removes, and exposed rims chip easily if a shampoo bottle tips over. Kingston Brass, a company that actually sells these, gives a surprisingly candid rundown of the tradeoffs. The style boomed from 2003 to 2015 and now reads as dated to most buyers — a hard landing for a sink that once cost triple what an overmount does.

15. One Long Trough Sink, Two Faucets

The Trough Sink With Two Faucets

On paper, this looks like the smarter alternative to a double vanity — two people, one basin, no wasted counter space between separate bowls.

Live with it, though, and cracks show. A single long trough typically has one drain, centered or at one end, so the far end collects a shallow film of standing water and toothpaste residue after every use, since the slope built into these basins is minimal by design. Splash is also a problem — with two faucets feeding one shared basin, water flung from one side lands right near the other person’s toothbrush. In the end you’ve doubled your faucet-repair count while cutting your drains in half, which is the worst combination of both approaches.

16. Chasing Trend Finishes (Matte Black, Then Brushed Gold)

Everything in the Finish of the Moment (Matte Black, Then Brushed Gold)

Matte black dominated from roughly 2016 to 2021, then warm brass took the crown starting around 2020.

Both finishes show every water spot and fingerprint, and matte black in particular develops a hazy white film of dried hard water that wipes away only to return almost immediately. It’s genuinely high-maintenance, and the finish isn’t even consistent across brands — a Delta black and a Kohler black won’t quite match in the same room. The bigger issue is availability: manufacturers typically retire trend finishes within five to eight years, so when one piece in a matching set fails, you often can’t find a replacement in that color anymore. Chrome and brushed nickel, by contrast, have been in continuous production for a century — not because they’re safe choices, but because the parts are always available.

17. A Chandelier Hanging Above the Tub

The Chandelier Over the Tub

It’s probably the most Instagrammed detail in the aspirational American bathroom: crystal fixture, dimmed low, suspended over a freestanding soaker with a folded towel draped on the rim.

Electrical code isn’t a fan. The NEC restricts what can be installed in the zone directly above a tub — generally nothing within three feet horizontally and eight feet vertically of the rim unless it’s rated for damp or wet locations and protected by GFCI. A surprising number of installed chandeliers wouldn’t pass inspection today. Steam also degrades crystal over time, leaving water spots on every facet, and dusting a fixture positioned above the tub usually means standing on a wet, slippery acrylic surface to reach it.

But the deeper issue has nothing to do with code or cleaning — it’s that you’re lighting a tub that gets filled maybe twice a year, for a version of your evenings that never quite materializes. You imagined a long candlelit soak; what you actually get most nights is a phone, a Tuesday, and a nine-minute shower instead.

18. The Sheet-Style Waterfall Faucet

The Waterfall Faucet

Instead of an aerated stream, an open trough spout releases a flat, wide sheet of water — thin, unpredictable, and prone to hitting a shallow vessel bowl and spraying sideways across the counter.

The exposed channel is the design’s real flaw: in hard water areas it mineralizes into a chalky crust within just a few months, and the once-smooth sheet degrades into an uneven dribble. You can clean it, but be ready to be descaling that trough on a near-constant basis. An aerator, by comparison, blends air into the water so it lands softly without splashing — that’s not a downgrade, it’s just better engineering.

19. Frameless Glass for the Shower Enclosure

Frameless Glass Shower Doors

Half-inch tempered glass with no metal frame and minimal hardware creates the illusion that nothing’s there at all — which is exactly the appeal.

What nobody mentions upfront is the squeegee routine that comes with it. As hard water evaporates off the glass, dissolved minerals stay behind, and over a few years that silica actually etches into the surface — not a removable film, but permanent damage. At that point no cleaner fixes it and the panel needs replacing; a daily wipe-down, every shower, by every person, is the only real prevention. Hardware adds another cost center: heavy hinges bolt through the tile into blocking behind the wall, so a sagging door or failed hinge means drilling into a finished wet wall to fix it. Panels run $1,000 to $3,000, and this has been the remodel standard since 2008 — priced like a luxury upgrade, but lived with like a daily chore.

20. Squeezing a Freestanding Soaker Into a Small Bathroom

The Freestanding Soaking Tub in a Small Bathroom

Arguably the most-photographed remodeling choice since around 2014 — and, according to renovation professionals, one of the most commonly regretted.

A 60-inch freestanding tub needs breathing room on every side, which typically sacrifices four to six inches of floor space you can no longer walk on or use for storage. Filling a 70-gallon soaker also exceeds what a standard 40-gallon water heater can comfortably supply, forcing you to either upgrade the heater or settle for a lukewarm bath. Then there’s the notorious gap — that roughly three-inch void between the tub and the wall — which collects dust, hair, and dropped razors that no mop can reach. All told, installation often runs past $5,000 for a fixture most households fill maybe six times a year, which is exactly why GOBankingRates ranks it near the top of its expensive-regret list.

21. Installing a Steam Generator for the Shower

The Steam Shower Generator

The setup involves a small boiler tucked into a closet or vanity base, a fully sealed enclosure with a sloped ceiling, a dedicated drain for the unit, and a control panel embedded in the wall — typically $3,000 to $8,000 installed.

Usage tends to be the punchline: most owners use it a handful of times the first year, then even less after that.

Moisture is the real concern. A single steam cycle releases a gallon or two of water vapor into a room whose exhaust fan — often a builder-grade 50 or 80 CFM unit — was never designed to handle that load. The vapor doesn’t stay contained; it works its way into the ceiling cavity, behind the tile, and through any weak point in the vapor barrier. Steam pressure pushes moisture through grout and behind cement board far more aggressively than an ordinary shower does, which is exactly why a proper steam installation requires full waterproofing up to the ceiling, a sloped ceiling so condensation drains to the wall instead of dripping down on you, and a dedicated fan running on a timer for twenty to thirty minutes after each use.

Cut corners on any of that and you’ll see the familiar progression: bubbling paint at the ceiling line, dark staining at the grout corners, then a musty smell that lingers even with the window open. On top of all that, steam generators scale up with hard water use, so annual descaling or an inline softener becomes a permanent part of ownership. A hot shower with the door shut delivers roughly eighty percent of the sensation for free.

22. The Built-In Sit-Down Makeup Station

The Sit-Down Makeup Vanity Station

A signature look of 2010s vanity design: two cabinet runs flanking a knee-space gap with a stool tucked underneath. That gap sacrifices some of the best storage real estate in the entire bathroom for a seat that rarely gets used — most people actually apply makeup standing at the mirror, where the light is best for seeing clearly. Check in on almost any house a year after this remodel and you’ll find the stool relocated to a bedroom, while the knee space has quietly become home to a scale, a basket, and a hair dryer sitting on the floor.

23. Subscription Vitamin C Shower Filters

The Vitamin C "Spa" Shower Filter Cartridge

Marketed since roughly 2019 as a beauty fix for hair, skin, and vague “detox” claims, these cartridges need replacing every two to three months, indefinitely.

To their credit, vitamin C does neutralize free chlorine — a real, if fairly minor, benefit. What it doesn’t touch is calcium and magnesium, the actual minerals responsible for straw-like hair and spotty glass, and no cartridge screwed onto a shower arm removes those in any meaningful amount at typical flow rates. If hard water is truly the complaint, the real fix is a whole-house softener installed at the main line — one-time install, occasional bag of salt, and every fixture in the house benefits. The scented puck, by comparison, is mostly a subscription wrapped in a marketing story.

24. Wall-Mounted Body Spray Jets

Body Spray Jets in the Shower

Four wall jets alongside a rain head is the classic HGTV luxury shower — and also a plumbing math problem nobody actually solved.

Body sprays fall outside the EPA’s WaterSense showerhead specification, so the 2.5 gpm cap governing your main showerhead doesn’t apply cleanly to the whole array; add them together and a fully-loaded shower can move eight to twelve gallons per minute. A standard half-inch supply branch simply can’t deliver that much, so pressure drops, temperature swings whenever someone flushes elsewhere in the house, and the thermostatic or pressure-balance valve starts hunting for equilibrium — which feels like a broken valve but is really just a starved one.

The drain is an even bigger bottleneck. A standard two-inch shower drain handles roughly five to six gallons per minute in real-world use; push twelve gallons at it and the pan fills faster than it can empty, sending water over the curb and onto the bathroom floor, then into the subfloor right where waterproofing membranes typically end. Hot water runs out fast too — twelve gallons a minute can drain a 50-gallon tank in about four minutes of mixed flow. Doing this correctly requires a three-inch drain, upsized supply branches, a high-capacity or recirculating water heater, and a valve rated for the total flow — a full plumbing package, not a simple accessory. Most installations skip all of it, leaving owners chasing pressure that fluctuates for reasons they can never quite pin down.

25. Relying on a Rain Showerhead Alone

The Rain Showerhead as Your Only Showerhead

Federal regulation caps every showerhead at 2.5 gallons per minute, which means a 12-inch rain face is working with the exact same 2.5 gallons as a $20 head from the hardware store — just stretched across roughly four times the surface area.

That spreads the water thinner, sends it straight down instead of with any real pressure, and lets it lose heat the entire way down. That’s why rinsing conditioner out under one can feel like standing in a light drizzle with your arms raised — Delta Faucet breaks down the flow-rate math if you want the specifics. Keep the rain head if you love how it looks, but add a $40 handheld on a slide bar alongside it — that’s the fixture that actually gets you clean.

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